Two years ago whilst on the Castellane/Verdon Gorge Trip the idea of a visit to the Pyrenees was hatched. We are lucky to have a member who lives in the Pyrenees and Will Spray set about finding a campsite and planning ride-outs.
Earlier this year most of the planning was complete and our Social Secretary, Tim Robinson visited the campsite and area chosen by Will Spray.
Shortly before the date of the holiday, Tim was unable to come on the trip so Mark Handley stepped in to provide a website link and liaise the trip from his chalet in Argeles-Gazost, our campsite for the next week. This is located some 10 miles south of Lourdes in western end of the French Pyrenees.
This report will follow Mike Davies (R1200GS Adventure) and Paul Round on their way to and from the location and some ride-outs and other visits made during the ten days they took on the trip.
Friday 7th September:
I rose early at 3.30am and left home on dry roads in the dark to meet up with my riding companion Paul Round (R100RT – oldest bike on trip) at a local hotel car park on the A12 outside Colchester. Our ride to the P&O Ferry terminal at Dover was uneventful – the ferry was selected as it was about twenty pounds cheaper than the Tunnel and allowed us to have a break after the 120 miles ride there.
Leaving the terminal in Calais my pre-loaded route on the GPS took us clear of Calais out on to the peage which we had decided to use in order to travel quickly to our Etap hotel in Amboise, some 325 miles south. We arrived here after fuel and meal stops. Etap hotels offer a good standard of accommodation at a reasonable rate. It was here we met up with Adrian Hobbs (R1200GS) who was to ride the rest of the way with us.
Saturday 8th September:
Leaving the Etap, Amboise, our route again used the peage system as we had 425 mile to Argeles-Gazost, the campsite.
With very little traffic our progress was swift on dry sunny roads. We passed through an area used by The Tour de France and the photos show a monument to this event.
After fuel and meal stops we arrived at the campsite in Argeles-Gazost where we booked in, collected the key and sheets and unloaded our bikes. The week’s cost for this chalet was about 400 Euros split between the two of us and included gas and electricity.
Mark Handley (R1100RT) was in the next chalet with his partner Lynn and welcomed us with a “free” soft drink! Mark and Lynn’s chalet was to be the EA Section meeting place and during the week most people on the trip made use of the facilities – with kind thanks to Lynn’s hospitality and supply of coffee and tea.
On site was a good restaurant, bar and swimming pool.
Sunday 9th September:
Saturday morning dawned bright with little wind and was free day with no organised events.
Prior to departing I had worked out some routes to local areas of interest, kindly supplied by Will Spray. Today Paul and I decided to visit the Pic De Bin, an Observatory perched high at 9000 feet and only 45 miles from the campsite. Mark Handley decided to join us and we set off to La Mongie where we parked the bikes and took the cable car in two stages up to the Observatory.
This is an amazing spot with 360 degree views around the Pyrenees stretching out some 33 visible miles away – luckily it was a beautiful clear day!
We had lunch at the top and after taking many photos we descended in the cable car.
We then rode on to the Col de Tourmalet which leads eventually into Spain.
Our ride back to Argeles-Gozost was enjoyable as are all the rides in the Pyrenees.
Monday 10th September:
An interesting point concerning the campsite became apparent as soon as we arrived! It was infested with rabbits – not the usual wild type but, although still wild, these all looked more like domestic rabbit! Lynn made good friends with them!
This was another free day and as the weather was sunny and dry we decided to visit Le Petit Train d’Artouste at Fabreges about 45 miles away, passing firstly over the Col du Soular
and then the Col d’Aubisque on the way.
We arrived at Fabreges where we boarded a cable car to take us up to Le Petit Train start point. This is located at around 6000 feet and is reputed to be the highest train in Europe – a narrow gauge system which runs along the side of a deep valley for about 50 minutes. We had lunch here in a restaurant with superb views over the Pyrenees then boarded the train.
On the way we stopped to allow another train to pass in the opposite direction and there at the side of the track was Marmot, eating food thrown to it by the passengers.
Our ride back to the campsite was uneventful after a truly exciting train journey.
Tuesday 11th September:
Today we had an organised ride-out lead by Will Spray. This was to take us to Ainsa in Spain passing over the Col du Soular, Col d’Aubisque
and Col du Pouralet which is the border with Spain.
On the way to Ainsa we stopped at road works where we spoke to an English family who were travelling by house drawn caravan form England to Spain over 6 months.
On to Ainsa and lunch.
The return route was via the Bielsa Tunnel, Col de Aspin and Col du Tourmalet. Total distance for this ride-out was around 200 miles.
Wednesday 12th September:
Today there was a ride-out organised by Will Spray’s friend, Phil Battersby who runs a motorcycle tour business nearby. It was raining!! The route lay over the Col de la Pierre St Martin to Isaba in Spain. What we were to experience was not for the faint hearted!
I was a little concerned that we appeared to be riding in the wrong direction soon after we left the campsite. I was right as after some miles Phil and Will had a chat and we changed to the correct route! The weather was unpleasant with heavy rain and as we climbed higher to the Col de la Pierre St Martin it got worse with visibility down to 20 yards and thick low cloud. Also, the road had recently been tarred and gravelled and had large areas of loose chippings particularly around the many bends for ten kilometres! This is a typical occasion you question your judgement for being there! Anyway, we proceeded slowly and eventually dropped down through the cloud and rain into sunny Isaba in Spain! I have no photos of the Col!!
After lunch we had a walk around the town and re-assembled at the bikes for the ride back to camp. Someone asked which way we were going and Paul replied, jokingly – “the same as we came”! He was right!! Yes, up we went back into the clouds and rain and chippings on the road, over the Col de la St Pierre Martin and eventually back to the campsite. A distance of around 180 miles!
That evening Will had arranged a meal in a local restaurant and fortunately we arrived back in time to shower and make it to the meal.
Thursday 13th September:
Today was a rest day and it rained. Some of us spent some time at Mark and Lynn’s chalet chatting over all kinds of subjects.
Later Paul, Steve and myself walked the short distance to the excellent zoo and spent a pleasant two hours looking at all the animals both live and stuffed.
In the evening some of us went into town for an evening meal.
Friday 14th September:
Paul and I had planned to start for home on Friday whilst others were leaving on Saturday. We planned a two day trip back stopping at the Ibis Hotel, Rochefort in Brittany the first night to visit the historic 17th century Naval Dockyard where there was a recently built replica of a French Frigate nearing completion.
Saturday 15th September:
Today we rode up through minor D roads in glorious sunshine to a private hotel in Bagnoles De L’Orne, Normandy – a pleasant change from the peages. No traffic and lovely scenery. We stopped at a Centre Medieval on the way but it was closed so we rode into St Suzanne where we had lunch. After lunch we carried on through minor D roads to Bagnoles De l’Orne. This was an amazing town which appeared like a mirage out of the agricultural landscape, complete with lake, casino and several hotels. Our hotel, Hotel La Potiniere du Lac is run by a young couple who took it over a couple of years ago. Our bookings were for bed, breakfast and evening meal for 65 Euros! Excellent value.
Sunday 16th September:
Our last day in France and an easy dry ride to the P&O Ferry at Calais which we made in good time and were offered an earlier boat which we took.
Thus ended an excellent East Anglia Section Holiday to the Pyrenees. Some 27 people had originally indicated they were coming and this diminished to around 23 people. Members came from East Anglia, Midlands, Scotland, West Country and Ireland – forgive me if I have missed out any areas.
Paul and I covered around 2250 miles and both his R100RT and my R1200GSA performed well. Don’t forget to turn the fuel taps on, Paul!
Many thanks to Tim Robinson for initially setting this up with Will Spray & Phil Battersby in France and Mark Handley and Lynn for their excellent hospitality on site.